Oppi Untracht and the Jeweler's Bible

We keep lots of great books in the studio library at Saori C. Fine Jewelry but we refer back to the books of metalsmith Oppi Untracht far more than those of any other author. Oppi was (he passed away in 2008) a New York master metalsmith, who wrote what is probably the best all-around jewelry making and metalsmithing guide ever. That book, Jewelry Concepts and Technology (which will run you close to a C-note, but it worth every penny), is the go-to reference and all-around bible for jewelry designers, craftsmen, and manufacturers the world over. It's chock full of the four t's (tools, tips, tricks, and techniques) and no serious jeweler or jewelry designer should be without it. We refer to it at least weekly, and it's certainly the most dog-eared book in our studio.

Oppi also wrote several other great books about specific metalsmithing techniques (Metal Techniques for Craftsmen, Enameling On Metal), and his magnum opus, an amazing book on the techniques, designs, and history of Indian jewelry and jewelry making, Traditional Jewelry of India, which is out in paperback and well worth acquiring.

So if you're looking for some great additions to your jewelry library, or are just getting started and trying to decide in what references to invest your hard-earned money, give the works of Oppi Untracht a look. He won't steer you wrong.

 

 

 

(Pictures from Amazon.)

Bon Bon Black Pearl Hoop Earrings

As promised, the companion piece to the Reign Black Pearl Necklace: Saori C. Jewelry Designs' Bon Bon Black Pearl Hoop Earrings. This set can also be done with our handmade French wires, but this version, with its heavier, hand-forged sterling silver hoops, is my personal favorite.

 

As I mentioned in a previous post, this version, in stunning black pearls and sterling silver, is the original, but we sell lots of these in white pearls to brides and bridesmaids as well. And for everyday wear, these also come in delicate pink pearls. Like those of the Reign Necklace, the sterling silver caps are hand-forged and hand-hammered - a lot of work goes into the detail and design of these earrings!

Reign Black Pearl Necklace

I wanted to introduce you to one of Saori C. Jewelry Designs' most popular pieces - the Reign Pearl Necklace. This is the original design, done in stunning black pearls and sterling silver, but we also sell many in white pearls as well to brides and bridesmaids. This particular customer also ordered a pair of matching earrings, which I'll feature next time.

This picture shows a closeup of the clasp - note the delicate design.

Also note the pearl pendant cap - that's hand-forged from sterling silver and hand-detailed, and gives the piece an amazing sparkle.

More on the earrings next time. Stay tuned!

A New Option For Your Jewelry Clasps

Magnetic Clasps

One of the more recent innovations on the fine jewelry market is magnetic clasps. Although when they were first introduced they had a reputation for being the latest gimmick or fad, lately they have begun to be appreciated as a great help for folks who have difficulty manipulating traditional clasps, especially in cases where arthritis, diabetes, or other conditions could cause difficulty.

At Saori C. Jewelry Designs, we have done several fine jewelry and bridal jewelry pieces with magnetic clasps recently, and have received nothing but positive feedback from our customers about their ease of use. Also, as the market for these clasps grows, many very stylish varieties are now available in many metals and styles.

 

There is one important thing about magnetic clasps that needs to be remembered, though, and that is how to open them. The best way is to open the clasp like you would open an egg you just cracked: holding on to either side and pulling down (not out!) so that the top opens first, then the bottom. This puts torque only on the clasp itself (which is designed to take it), and not on your necklace. You should never attempt to open a magnetic clasp by pulling horizontally on it. The magnet is strong enough that most likely you will break the necklace before the clasp comes apart.

Next up: More about pearls. Stay tuned!

It's Our Anniversary!

Ten Years Online!

September marks the ten-year anniversary of http://www.saoric.com/, Saori C. Jewelry Designs' online site! It's hard to believe that it's been that long. In that time we've made a bunch of new friends, helped many, many brides with jewelry for their special days, moved the brick and mortar business once, and redesigned the Web site four times.

As some long-time customers will remember, this was the original logo for the Web site. Looks a bit different now, doesn't it?

I also wanted to announce that, as part of our anniversary, we're having a special this month at Saori C. Jewelry Designs. All orders postmarked between September 1 and September 30, 2010, will receive free UPS Ground shipping! For full details and restrictions, please take a look at www.saoric.com/orders.htm.

We really want to thank everyone for your business and your support all these years! For a business like ours, word of mouth is the most important form of advertising, and as trite as it sounds, it's true: We couldn't have done it without you!

Pearl Buying Trip

Touring Tokyo's Pearl District

The Saori C. Jewelry Designs buying team recently returned from a pearl buying trip to Tokyo. When it comes to cultured saltwater pearls, we use only the best, and to get the best, you have to go to the source: Japan.

Tokyo's pearl district is a fasciniating place - there are literally dozens of pearl wholesalers and retailers within a couple of square kilometers, catering to all different tastes and price ranges. We were looking for top-quality white pearls for bridal jewelry, so that's what we were focusing on. We talked to several wholesalers in the area, and in addition to establishing some great connections and getting some great product, we also picked up a lot of insider insight into the cultured saltwater pearl business.

We were also extremely lucky to score a meeting with the head of one of the largest pearl wholesalers in Japan, who kindly shared his wealth of knowledge with us, not only about the industry, but about pearls and the pearl making process. Turns out a lot of what you think you know about pearls is probably wrong. Stay tuned. :)

Gold Jewelry Guide

Gold, gold plate, gold-filled, and vermeil. What’s the dilly-o?

While we’re on the topic of materials, another common question we get here is “What’s the difference between solid gold, gold plate, gold-filled, and vermeil? Are they all the same? Which is better?” First, they are not all the same. As to which is better, well, that depends on what you’re looking for and what you want to spend on it.

Solid gold is the most obvious, as the name describes exactly what it is. All gold, no fillers. All gold jewelry pieces we make at Saori C. Jewelry Designs employ only solid gold. Because, by nature, solid gold pieces contain more gold than any of the other three varieties, they tend to be the most expensive.

Of the remaining three, gold plate is the most common and usually the least expensive, as it has the least amount of gold in it. In gold-plated jewelry, an extremely thin layer of gold is deposited on a base metal (often copper or nickel) using electricity (hence the term “electroplating”). Because the layer of gold is so thin, it can easily wear off with heavy polishing. As well, the base metal tends to gradually bleed through the gold layer, and so people with copper or nickel allergies should beware of gold plate.

Gold-filled is the next step up. Gold-filled jewelry is made of a layer of gold pressure-bonded to a base metal. The thickness of the gold layer in gold-filled pieces is regulated by the US government, and can be hundreds to tens of thousands of times the size of those in pieces that are plated. A common mark you would see on a gold-filled piece might be “1/20 14k GF,” which means that the layer of gold is 14 karat and the gold makes up 1/20th of the total piece by weight (the minimum allowed by law). Because gold-filled jewelry contains much more gold that gold-plated jewelry, it can be quite a bit more expensive.

Last, and least common these days, is vermeil. Vermeil is also regulated by the US government, and consists of sterling silver plated in at least 10 karat gold of a specified minimum thickness (2.5 microns, in case you were wondering). There is less gold in vermeil than in many gold-filled pieces, but since the base metal is higher quality (sterling silver), prices can be comparable. However, very few jewelers make vermeil pieces anymore, so if you come across some, you’re most likely antiquing.